Emilia-Romagna might be Italy’s top foodie destination, but it is also home to a hidden gem called Ravenna. This small city on the Adriatic coast became capital of the Roman Empire in the 5th century. Byzantine artists flocked there and went wild, blanketing churches and tombs with vivid mosaics. Eight of these structures still stand and are wonderfully well-preserved, all recognized by UNESCO for their exceptional artistic value. Here’s where you can find the best mosaics in Ravenna.
Note that visitation to some of the sites is strictly controlled and you will need to reserve your entry times in advance. I booked my tickets through the city’s official tourism website.
If you want to see more of Emilia-Romagna, you can check out my detailed guide to Bologna, Modena, and Parma here.
Basilica di San Vitale
The altar of this 1500-year-old church is adorned with some of Ravenna’s most famous mosaics. Depicted in brilliant blue, green, and gold are images of the Byzantine Emperor Justinian and his wife, Empress Theodora. The colorful designs are scenes from the Old Testament and are a unique blend of eastern and western, Roman and medieval Christian styles.
Mausoleo di Galla Placidia
Within the same complex as the Basilica di San Vitale is the small but mighty Mausoleo di Galla Placidia. Every inch of this ancient mausoleum is covered in tiny tiles that twinkle under the blazing light of alabaster windows. The blue-and-gold ceiling represents the starry night sky over images meant to represent eternal life. These are the oldest mosaics in Ravenna and are not to be missed.
Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo
This impressive church was built in the 6th century for King Theodoric and was located near his palace. Both walls of the central nave are covered in mosaics. On one side is a parade of virgins with offerings for the Madonna; a row of martyrs faces them across the aisle. Other images include the lost port of Classe and Theodoric’s Ravenna palace.
Battistero degli Ariani
Arianism, an extreme Christian offshoot, was the official religion of King Theodoric’s court. It is supposedly represented in the golden mosaic of Ravenna’s Arian Baptistry, though any religious nuances in style are lost on me.
Battistero Neoniano
The oldest intact structure still standing in Ravenna is Battistero Neoniano. This baptistry was built in 4th century on the site of former Roman baths. Its mosaics were added a century later and show Christ in the River Jordan with St John the Baptist. It is thought to be the oldest mosaic depiction of Christ’s baptism in the world.
Archbishop’s Chapel of St. Andrew
Tucked away on the second floor of the Museo Arcivescovile is the Chapel of St. Andrew. Dating to the end of the 5th century, the small space was a private oratory for Catholic Bishops. The symbolism of the mosaics is said to be strongly anti-Arian.
Another treasure of the museum is the ivory throne of Maximian, Archbishop of Ravenna. It was created by Byzantine artists in the 6th century and is considered one of the finest pieces of carved ivory in Western art.
Other Things to Do in Ravenna
Domus dei Tappeti di Pietra
In 1993 during excavations for a new car park, workers made quite an exciting discovery: the ruins of a 14-room palace dating to the 6th century. What makes it special, though, are the “carpets” of marble mosaics on the floor of each room. Needless to say, the plans for the car park were canceled. Access to the subterranean archeological site is through the Church of Sant’Eufemia.
Dante’s Tomb
Dante Alighieri, Italy’s Supreme Poet, was born in Florence in 1265 and died in Ravenna in 1321. His epic poem, “The Divine Comedy,” is considered a literary masterpiece. It follows Dante on his travels through hell and purgatory with the ancient Roman poet, Virgil, and gives us very creative descriptions of the sins and punishments in the 9 circles of hell.
Where to Eat in Ravenna
Profumo di Piadina Laboratorio del Palato
I spent two days in Ravenna and ate lunch Profumo di Piadina on both of them. Piadinas are flatbread sandwiches similar to panini, stuffed full of delicious local meats and cheeses. I highly recommend the mortadella with creamy squacquerone cheese and pistachios. Take a number and join the queue. You won’t regret it.
il Forno Argnani
A few doors down from the sandwich shop is a delightful little bakery. Open since 1953, il Forno Argnani has some of the best cookies and cannoli in town.
Trattoria La Rustica
For a proper sit-down dinner, head to Trattoria la Rustica. This cozy family-run restaurant serves up exceptional examples of local cuisine. I thoroughly enjoyed a bowl of fresh pasta with pistachio pesto, grilled seasonal vegetables with Romano cheese, and the star – creamy panna cotta with caramelized figs.
Cabiria Wine Bar
If you’re in the mood for an aperitivo, check out Cabiria Wine Bar. I was as impressed with the food and service as I was with the wine list.
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