The Emilia-Romagna region of Italy is known for three things: food, opera, and sports cars. Bologna is the capital, renowned for its university, ragù sauce, and labyrinth of UNESCO-listed porticoes. Pretty little Parma is the home of Parmesan cheese, prosciutto, and composer Giuseppe Verdi, three of my favorite things. Not to be outdone, Modena’s contribution is balsamic vinegar, tortellini, Luciano Pavarotti, and luxury automobiles. The following Bologna, Modena, and Parma itinerary will help you explore these three Italian gems over five delicious days.
Frequent direct trains among the cities mean you can base yourself in one city and easily take day trips to the others. But spending the night in each one will give you more time to explore and – this is important – eat dinner! Most restaurants don’t open until 7 or 7:30 pm and you don’t want to be stressing throughout the meal about catching the last train back to your home base. Spend the night and enjoy your vacation.
Here is my tried and true 5-day Bologna, Modena, and Parma itinerary. It includes the top attractions in each city, plus recommendations on where and what to eat.
Bologna – 1.5 Days/1 Night
Bologna is the most popular city in Emilia-Romagna. Its pretty red buildings, miles of porticoes, and iconic leaning towers are simply enchanting. I spent one full day, one night, and half the next day exploring the historic center before catching my train.
Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio
Bologna University is the oldest in continuous operation in the world. In 1563, newly built Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio became the main campus, which it remained for 250 years. Copernicus was a student in this building, along with the Archbishop of Milan and several popes. All the palace walls, from the corridors to the classrooms, are painted with the family coats of arms of all the graduates of the Archiginnasio era (6,000 in total).
In 1637, the university added an anatomical theater for anatomy lessons and dissections. It’s not the oldest in the world – that honor goes to Padua. But it is where rhinoplasty was pioneered, so there’s that. The wooden room features several rows of benches surrounding a marble slab table. While all the wood had to be replaced after WWII bombings of Bologna, all the statues are original.
Only so many people are allowed in the anatomical theater at a time, so you will definitely need to purchase tickets in advance. You can find all the details on the official website. The palace is also home to the university’s historic library, but that’s not open to tourists.
Basilica di San Petronio
Although its construction was never finished, Bologna’s Basilica of St Petronius is still the fifth largest church in the world. The original goal was for it to be larger than St Peter’s in the Vatican, but Pope Pius IV disapproved of the plan and had the new university building, mentioned above, built next door to block any possible expansion.
Palazzo d’Accursio
Bologna’s Town Hall dates to the 1330s and gets its name from Accursius, a notable medieval lawyer. Visits include access to the historic halls and meeting rooms, as well as to Municipal Art Collection. You’ll also be able to step onto a balcony with great views of Piazza Maggiore.
Note that Palazzo d’Accursio opens most days at 8:30am, so it’s a great thing to do on the morning of your second day in Bologna. You can find the opening hours and ticket info here.
International Museum and Library of Music
The best hidden gem of Bologna might be the International Museum and Library of Music. Absent from my guidebook, I only discovered this place when researching the city on Google Maps. Opened in 2004, the museum showcases the collection of Father Giovanni Battista Martini, a master of European music who taught the likes of Bach and Mozart. You’ll find rare instruments, original scores and operas, and paintings of influential figures.
Housed in a Renaissance palace, the setting is just as impressive as the collection. It was also blissfully free of other tourists!
The Two Towers
During the Middle Ages, Italian families showed off their wealth by building towers on their property. Bologna once had as many as 100 towers punctuating its skyline, though fewer than 20 remain standing today.
The most famous, Asinelli and Garisenda, are known as the Two Towers and are the symbol of the city. Until recently it was possible to climb Asinelli Tower, the taller of the two. But Garisenda Tower is leaning so much that the whole site has been closed for safety precautions.
Bologna Porticoes
Bologna has over 60 kilometers of porticoes, more than any other city in the world. These covered arcades were built in the 12th century as a way of expanding home sizes without adding more land. The upper floors were expanded over the pedestrian lanes, and columns added for extra support.
Porticoes keep you cool in summer and dry in rain. I don’t know why more cities don’t build in this way. But this architectural feature is so unique to Bologna that it was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2021.
Where to Eat in Bologna
Ristorante di San Pietro
My search for the best ragù sauce in Bologna led me to San Pietro restaurant. Everything I ate here was delicious, from the fried artichoke appetizer to the fresh berry panna cotta for dessert. The star, though, was the tagliatelle al ragù. As it should be in the city that invented this beloved classic dish. Just don’t call it Bolognese sauce, or the locals might not know what you’re talking about.
Service was wonderful, and I especially appreciated that the waiter left a bottle of limoncello on the table with dessert and told me to help myself. Don’t mind if I do!
Mò Mortadella Lab
Don’t leave Bologna without getting a sandwich from Mò Mortadella Lab. This place is the best! The “lab” is actually hole-in-the-wall deli counter specializing in – you guessed it – mortadella sandwiches. It opens at noon every day but Monday, and almost always has a lengthy wait. I showed up at 11:45am on a Tuesday in April, and there were already around a dozen people in line. 20 minutes later, the queue stretched around the block.
I ordered the classic mortadella with creamy Stracciatella cheese, tangy sundried tomatoes, and fresh basil. It was so good, I’d travel back to Bologna just to have another.
Modena – 1.5 Days/1 Night
Don’t be fooled by Modena’s small size. It is bursting with interesting things to do! If you want to tour a Balsamic vinegar factory or visit the Pavarotti house museum in addition to the places listed below, you will need to spend longer in Modena. I wish I had!
Enzo Ferrari Museum
What’s the first name that comes pops up when you think of luxury sports cars? If you said Ferrari, then you’re in luck. Modena is where they are made! Enzo Ferrari was born in Modena in 1898 and started his now-famous car company in the 1930s. Before branching out on his own, Enzo was a part of the Alfa Romeo racing team, first as a driver, then a manager. You can learn all about this fascinating history at the Museo Enzo Ferrari.
The former family home and workshop of Enzo’s father, Alfredo, has an detailed exhibition of engines that was much more interesting than I expected. You can see the difference between the classic cars and F1 racers, as well as how both evolved over the decades.
The modern glass building next door contains a large showroom of over a dozen Ferraris, ranging from vintage models to the most current supercars. You can even sit in one and have pictures taken by a professional photographer to make all your friends jealous. A video of Enzo’s life plays on a large screen over the vehicles.
Duomo di Modena
Modena Cathedral is considered the best Romanesque church in Italy and recognized by UNESCO for its exceptional artistic value. Construction of the cathedral began in 1099 and utilized stones and materials from the ruins of ancient Roman temples. This is why you’ll find mismatched marble columns and massive lions guarding all the doors. The cathedral is accredited to the brilliant architect Lanfranco.
An elaborate crypt contains the tomb of St. Geminiano, the patron saint of Modena. It’s accessed beneath a balcony decorated by Wiligelmo, who created all the sculptures and carvings throughout the cathedral. (Aside from those recycled from the Romans.)
Torre Civica – Ghirlandina
While the cathedral is free to enter, you must pay to climb the Ghirlandina bell tower. Standing nearly 90 meters tall, it provides a wonderful view of Modena if you are able to trek up the 200 steps to the top. Only 25 visitors are allowed up at a time, so you may need to book a timeslot in advance during the high season. The entrance to the tower is outside the cathedral.
Piazza Grande
If you’d rather enjoy the tower views from ground level, pop over to Enoteca Al Duomo for an aperitivo. I recommend a glass of local red wine and a plate of gnocco fritto, or prosciutto and puffed bread – a specialty of Emilia-Romagna. The wine bar is tucked next to the cathedral in Piazza Grande, the main square of Modena’s medieval center.
Mercato Storico Albinelli
Modena has one of the most wonderful covered markets I’ve ever seen. Mercato Storico Albinelli has been open since 1931 and is the commercial heart of the city. Locals shop here for the best seasonal produce, cheese, cured meats, fish, dried beans and grains, wine, and freshly-made pasta. For tourists, the market is a great place to sample balsamic vinegar and have lunch.
I ordered the tasting menu from Balsamico e Cucina, the restaurant of Monari Federzoni, one of the top producers of balsamic vinegar of Modena. The platter that came to the table was a buffet of local specialties, each enhanced with a drizzle of Modena’s “black gold.” My favorite dish was the calzagatti, or pan-fried cubes of polenta and beans. The ricotta and beetroot tortellone was a close second.
Galleria Estense
During the Middle Ages, Modena was an independent duchy ruled by the powerful House of Este. The Dukes of Este were great supporters of the arts, and the impressive collections they amassed are on display in the Galleria Estense. The museum has everything from Egyptian antiquities to rare musical instruments, though the main focus is on paintings.
My favorites were the series of 14 paintings by Tintoretto of scenes from Ovid’s Metamorphosis. Other masterpieces include a dashing portrait of Duke Francis I by Velázquez and a triptych by El Greco.
The Biblioteca Estense is in the same palace, one floor below the art gallery. I arrived at a time when the library was not open for tours, but was able to peek through the glass door at the shelves of books once owned by the House of Este.
The library’s star piece is the Bible of Borso d’Este, a 15th-century illuminated manuscript that’s considered among the best examples of its kind. While I could only glimpse the original through a window, the kind ladies at the library desk brought out an expert copy for me to flip through.
Where to Eat in Modena
One of the world’s best restaurants, Osteria Francescana, is in Modena, but good luck getting a reservation. My second choice, Zemiàn Piccola Osteria, was also fully booked by the time I started planning my trip and I’m still a little sad about it, to be honest. But thankfully this small city is packed with top-notch dining options and I didn’t have to go far down my list to find a great meal. Though I did need to venture out of the historic center.
Olimpia Restaurant combines the best fish and seafood from Sicily with the flavors of Emilia-Romagna. The menu changes often based on market freshness. Winning dishes at the time of my visit included gnocchi with shrimp and pesto, spaghettini with sardine ragù, and sea bass saltimbocca with prosciutto and sage. The warm chocolate cake with candied orange mascarpone was an excellent ending.
Parma – 2 Days/2 Nights
I gave myself more time in Parma because I wanted to tour a Parmesan cheese factory. My whole trip to Emilia-Romagna was planned around it, in fact, and I have no regrets. Parma ended up being my favorite city of the three. It also happens to be the region’s gastronomic capital. Coincidence?
Parmesan Cheese Factory Tour
San Pier Damiani Dairy was founded in 1964 when the son of a cheesemaker married the daughter of a dairy cow farmer. The two families combined their expertise to create exceptional Parmigiano Reggiano cheese.
Cows are milked nightly and the fresh milk is dropped off at the dairy every morning. It’s then heated with salt and rennet in large vats until balls of cheese are formed. The cheese is then cut and shaped into wheels before going into a salt bath. Finally, the cheese goes on a shelf to age for 12 to 50 months.
You can observe this fascinating cheesemaking process from start to finish by booking a full experience tour and tasting. Advance reservations are a must. After the tasting, you can purchase wedges of your favorite vintage from the well-stocked giftshop.
Parma Cathedral and Baptistry
The Parma Duomo was built in 1106 and is another great example of Romanesque design. Don’t be fooled by the plain exterior, though. The interior was given a spectacular Baroque makeover in the 16th century. Be sure to look up at the dome fresco by Correggio, a Renaissance master painter from Parma.
The adjacent baptistry was added nearly a century after the cathedral was consecrated. It is made of pink Verona marble and illustrates the architectural switch from Romanesque to Gothic. This is especially evident in the rib-vaulted ceiling. Most impressive, however, are its vibrant late medieval frescoes.
Teatro Regio
The Parma Opera House was built in the 1820s for the Duchess of Parma, Marie Louise, the former wife of Napoleon. (She ruled the Duchy of Parma for nearly four decades after their divorce.) Her original blue-and white color scheme was later replaced with the current white and gold with red velvet seats.
Giuseppe Verdi, who was born in Parma in 1813, staged his first successful opera Nabucco at the Teatro Regio in 1843. Since then, the theater has staged each of his 28 operas. Every October, it hosts the Verdi Festival, a month-long celebration of the brilliant composer.
Sadly, no performances were scheduled at the time of my visit, but I was able to join a fun English-language tour and watch a rehearsal for an upcoming production. There is also a surprisingly good gift shop in the lobby. This is where I bought most of my non-food Parma souvenirs.
Palazzo della Pilotta
The Duchy of Parma lasted from 1545 until 1859 when Italy was unified. During much of that time, Parma was ruled by the influential Farnese family. (The duchy was first created for Pier Luigi Farnese, the illegitimate son of Pope Paul III.) The dukes built a palace befitting their new rank, along with a grand theater and stables.
A large portion of the palace complex was lost to WWII bombings, though some parts have been rebuilt. The most notable resurrection is that of Teatro Farnese. Made almost entirely of wood, the 1964 recreation is a faithful ode to the Renaissance original.
Another must-see inside Pilotta is the National Gallery. It contains what was leftover from the Farnese collection after a good chunk of it was relocated to Naples, plus additions made by the subsequent ruling families. You’ll find masterpieces by Correggio, Leonardo, El Greco, Tintoretto, and Parmigianino, among many others.
Parco Ducale
Cross the stream affectionately known as Parma River and you’ll enter Parco Ducale. Now a public park, this was once the private garden of the Dukes of Parma. The ducal residence is still on the grounds and serves as the headquarters of the local Carabinieri, or Italian national police force, and you can’t go inside. But the manicured park is a peaceful place for an afternoon stroll.
La Coccinella Gelateria
Continue through the park and head to La Coccinella, one of the best gelaterias in Parma. This neighborhood gem uses top-quality local ingredients and all-natural flavorings. No mounds of neon ice cream here. I was pleasantly surprised to find fresh mint among the choices and paired it with creamy chocolate for a decadent treat.
Birthplace of Arturo Toscanini Museum
From the gelato shop it’s about a 20 minute walk to a interesting museum dedicated to Arturo Toscanini. The brilliant conductor was born at this house in Parma in 1867. By the age of 19, he was able to conduct Verdi’s Aida from memory. He went onto become the Maestro of La Scalla, the prestigious opera house in Milan, and later of the Metropolitan Opera in New York. The museum has family furnishings and photos, along with memorabilia from Toscanini’s lengthy career.
Where to Eat in Parma
Ristorante Gallo d’Oro
The Golden Rooster is a long-standing trattoria serving up classic Emilia-Romagna fare. I started with a plate of aged Parmigiano Reggiano cheese accompanied by generous pours of local honey and Modena balsamic. Next came a mouthwatering bowl of ravioli in a Parmigiano broth with shaved white truffle. Finally, a serving of plump cappelletti with a savory pork sausage ragù.
Officina Alimentare Dedicata
If you’d like to try food with a bit more flare, check out Officina Alimentare Dedicata, or the “Dedicated Food Workshop” of Parma. The focus here is on organic and seasonal local ingredients, so the menu is constantly changing. Gluten-free and vegan dishes are also available. I enjoyed potato and leek raviolini with asparagus and goat cheese, as well as pork belly with smoked carrot mousse and turnip greens.
Birra & Schiaccia
For the best sandwich in Parma, queue up at Birra & Schiaccia. This street food stand serves up flatbread sandwiches with the best regional meats and cheeses. Wash it down with a pint of beer from Gregorio brewery.
Vineria Giramondo
If you’d rather enjoy your Italian salumi with a glass of wine, snag a table at Vineria Giramondo. This charming little wine bar is the perfect spot for an afternoon apertivo.
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My husband and I have changed our trip itinerary based on this post!.we have 8 days in the region. Should we use Bologna as our base and do day trips by car, or just use the train. If we have a car, we can stay overnight in each town
But I’m worried about parking overnight in these small towns. What would you recommend?
Hi Jane, that’s a tough one! Having a car would make it easier to see more places and transport the luggage, but driving and parking in the historic centers could be tricky. Most of the accommodations in these towns seem to be small B&Bs, and I don’t know how many offer parking. My Parma B&B host offered to pick me up at the train station, and as he was driving us down the narrow alleys I was thinking how glad I was it wasn’t me behind the wheel.
Enjoy your trip!
I absolutely LOVED your blog about Emilia-Romagna!!
My husband and I are thinking of arriving in Venice where we might spend 3 nights. Using the train only, we would like to spend the next 5-6 days visiting Padua, Bologna, Modena. Which is the best town to use as a base for visiting the others? We don’t want to feel like nomads, staying in a different town every two nights. We end in Milan for 3 nights before flying to Madrid and Toledo for a wedding. We live in Boston. Come visit!
Thanks so much, Stephanie! Boston is one of my favorite cities in the US and I’d love to return for another visit.
Several years ago I used Padua as a base to explore Venice and Verona. Trains made it super easy to do, and Padua was a cute city. I wasn’t as impressed with the restaurants there, so Bologna or Modena would probably be better if you love food.
This sounds like an awesome trip. I hope you have the best time!
Could you kindly let me know which bed and breakfasts you recommend in the cities mentioned the article. ( Parma, Modena and Bologna)
Thank you.
Hi Marta, here are the places I stayed:
Parma: B&B Opera 11. The owner was very kind and helpful, even giving me a ride to and from the airport. The room was clean and comfortable. Highly recommend!
Modena: Salotto delle Arti. Located in an old mansion and very beautiful. Breakfast was wonderful! I wish I could have stayed longer.
Bologna: Bibliò Rooms Guesthouse. Large, clean room with a very comfortable bed. Great shower and bathroom. I slept very well here. No breakfast, though.