Zadar was a last minute addition to my Croatia road trip and ended up one of my favorite stops. Even though the city boasts many unique attractions, locals seemed to outnumber tourists two to one. It was a refreshing change from the more popular cruise ship ports along the coast. My two days in Zadar were spent sipping coffee in quiet squares, wandering among Roman ruins and modern art installations, and sunsets so colorful they took my breath away.
Romans established an outpost in northern Dalmatia in the first century BC and, amazingly, ruins from that time still stand. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the region ping-ponged between competing rulers, most notably the Byzantines, Venetians, and Austrians. Turks tried and failed to conquer the well-fortified city. Bombs devastated Zadar during World War II, destroying the Roman Forum and a large percentage of the city’s buildings, but it experienced a rebirth after WWII as part of the newly-formed Yugoslavia. The old town sustained even more damage when Croatia fought for and gained its independence in the mid-1990s. Walking around Zadar today, it’s incredible to think that shells rained down as little as two decades ago.
Every morning, I walked from my rental apartment to the old town, entering through the impressive Land Gate. This lion-embellished Venetian archway dates to 1573 and celebrates victory over the Turks. Once beyond the walls, I made a beeline for one of the city’s many cafes to sip coffee and watch the locals go about their day. I traced their footsteps through the marble alleys and public squares, admiring centuries-old churches and architecture reflecting the various empires that left their mark on the city. My one regret is not ascending the bell tower for an overview of the terracotta rooftops and medieval street layout.
Zadar’s bounty of attractions kept me busy during the day. The Archaeology Museum provides a visual summary of the region’s many cultural influences, including a wealth of Roman artifacts and sculptures. I was particularly impressed by the Museum of Ancient Glass, which boasts one of the best collections of Roman glass outside of Italy. I marveled at the cases pretty blue vials and jars, delicate pieces that miraculously survived multiple wars and centuries of civil change.
Evenings were spent enjoying some of the finest food in Croatia, featuring freshly-caught seafood and produce from the local farmers’ market.
My after-dinner walks along the city walls culminated with Zadar’s two unique modern art installations. At the Monument to the Sun, lights dance under a large circle of blue glass, glowing brighter as darkness ascends on the peninsula. Nearby, waves resound through the so-called Sea Organ. Concealed beneath a stretch of stone stairs, a series of pipes plays an other-worldly tune as the rushing water pushes air through. This is an ideal spot to rest weary feet and appreciate the coast’s spectacular beauty.
I spent two days in Zadar and another two days visiting Krka National Park and Sibenik. Definitely stay longer if you can!
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Mom says
This was lovely. Have always wanted to tour the Dalmation coast. I feel like I’ve seen a great deal of it though your blogs and pictures. This was a great adventure.
Luciano says
What a beautiful country! We’ve been to Croatia on three occasions so far, but never in Zadar. It seems that we’ve missed out a lot, so we definitely have to right the wrogns. Those fruits in the farmer’s market look so yummy and fresh!
Heather Hall says
Thanks, Luciano! I’d love to have some of those fresh Croatian fruits right about now š
TravelnLass says
Well hullo there, my dear! My thoughts exactly! I too rather stumbled upon Zadar in my skip through Croatia. And it turned out to be my *favorite*!
Heather Hall says
Hello! I’m happy to hear I’m not the only one with a soft spot for Zadar š Unexpected finds like that are rare these days, and quite special.
phong linh says
So beautiful. Maybe I will go to there for the tourizim. thank for sharing
Heather Hall says
My pleasure!
Ellen S Smith says
Am going to Croatia in June to celebrate my birthday with husband for two weeks. We want to fly into Zagreb and drive to Rovinj,Istria. From there drive to the Plitvice Lakes and NOW onto Zadar,due to your article. Visit the Krka National Park maybe 1 island, then onto Dubrovnik and maybe 1 town in Montenegro. We love exploring and appreciating the country, eating new food, drinking wine. We love traveling. Thank you for your input. Ellen
Heather Hall says
That’s wonderful to hear, Ellen! Croatia will be a wonderful place to celebrate your birthday, and I hope you enjoy your trip even more than I did. Happy travels!