While Latvia’s summer feels all too brief, the winter months can seem endless. Daylight hours drastically diminish and the temperature plunges, making it tempting just to stay in with Netflix and hot cocoa. Thankfully Riga provides loads of fun reasons to get out of the house, and I’m not even counting the festive Christmas markets (which you can read about here). So bundle up, grab a steaming cup of mulled wine, and get ready to party with Jack Frost! Here’s my list of things to do in Riga in winter.
Attend the Opera and Ballet
My absolute favorite Riga activity – regardless of season – is attending a performance of the Latvian National Opera and Ballet. For a few precious hours, the professional casts whisk me away to enchanted forests and 19th century Paris, resplendent in gorgeous costumes and set pieces. The luxurious Opera House evokes another era with its colossal chandelier, gilded paint and red velvet seats.
The majority of the audience dresses as befitting the occasion and promenades in the hallways at intermission, complementing the Hapsburg vibe of the place. Given the high caliber of the performances, the €35 price for prime orchestra seats is a steal! The season runs from September to June, and it’s best to purchase tickets in advance, especially for popular shows like the Nutcracker and Swan Lake.
Cheer on the Local Hockey Team
If you are looking for something a bit faster paced, check out Arena Riga, home to the Riga Dinamos hockey team! The games are thrilling to watch even when the team is struggling to make a goal thanks to the lively crowds, energetic mascot, and noise of the official cheering section. Plus, you never know who you might run into – Latvia’s president and first lady were guests of honor at one match I attended!
Shop for Traditional Latvian Mittens
If you haven’t heard, it gets pretty cold in Latvia. To protect hands from the harsh elements, grandmothers in the countryside have been knitting wool mittens for centuries. Today enterprising grannies sell their handiwork all over Riga, from street carts to souvenir shops. I’ve seen prices ranging from €8 to €68, with the quality varying just as much.
My three favorite stores for traditional Latvian mittens are Sena Klets, Tines, and Hobbywool, all located in Old Town. The hardest part is choosing among many gorgeous colors and patterns. I have four pair and counting! (For my complete Riga shopping guide, click here.)
Enjoy Sunset Cocktails – at 3:30 pm
With the sun rising at 9 am and setting at 4 pm, winter days in Riga are woefully short. Stave off the blues with a decadent mid-afternoon sundowner at a rooftop bars! The 26th floor of the Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija is home to Skyline Bar, a chic cocktail lounge with fantastic city views. I visited once during a winter storm and it felt like I was inside a snow globe.
Support Local Artists at the Student Art Fair
“Jarmarka” is the Latvian Academy of Art’s annual fair. Student works – everything from paintings and sculptures to jewelry and one-of-a-kind fashions – are sold off with the proceeds going towards the restoration of the Academy’s historic building. If you’re in the market for a conversation piece for your home or wardrobe, this is the place to get it. Jarmarka runs for two weeks in December and is closed over Christmas. Note that sales are cash only.
Warm your Soul with Hot Chocolate
Western European countries like Belgium and Switzerland might be famous for their chocolate, but Latvia has been producing its own for nearly as long. A Baltic German opened Latvia’s first confectionery in 1870 and the tradition lives on today. Two of Riga’s most popular chocolatiers are V. Ķuze and Emils Gustavs. Both shops offer a delicious array of truffles, but the true star is karstā šokolāde – literally a cup of hot melted chocolate. You won’t know what hit you!
Learn a Latvian Folk Dance
Every Wednesday, the popular Old Riga bar Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs throws a Latvian folk dancing party of epic proportions. People pack the cellar of this medieval tavern and learn to dance traditional Latvian steps with the help of professional instructors, live music, and lots of beer. There are 27 varieties of Latvian beer on tap!
Work up a Sweat at the Sauna
If dancing doesn’t warm you up on a blustery winter’s day, how about a visit to the sauna? A tradition that’s very popular in these parts, the sauna is as fun as it is good for your health. There’s nothing quite as exhilarating as going from the hot wood-fired sauna and plunging naked into a frigid pool of water. And you might even make some new Latvian friends in the process! You can read all about my Latvian sauna experience here.
Take Shelter in a Museum
For a relatively small city, Riga has a wealth of world-class museums. The Museum of the History of Riga and Navigation may sound less than thrilling, but the exhibits are surprisingly engaging, particularly those on Peter the Great and the city’s Art Nouveau movement. I could easily spend half a day here.
Another great option is the Riga Bourse, which holds Latvia’s extensive collection of foreign art. (Bonus tip: there is a unique view of the Dome Square Christmas Market from a top-floor window.) Both museums are housed in stunning heritage buildings and the architecture alone is worth the price of admission! Check out my complete museum guide for more options.
Give Ice Skating a Whirl
Want to glide across the ice and unleash your inner Olympian? Strap on a pair of skates at one of several ice rinks in Riga. The most popular location for this activity is probably the Lido Leisure Center, which is located in the Latgale suburb and easily reached by bus and tram. In past years rinks have been set up in the Spikeri warehouse district and Esplanade park in central Riga.
Test your Endurance with Cross-Country Skiing
If ice skating seems a bit too dangerous, cross-country skiing might be more your speed. While I’ve seen locals skiing along Riga streets during particularly heavy snowstorms, there are much safer routes. Rīga Slēpo sets up courses in suburban locales, including Uzvaras parks, and charges a reasonable hourly rate. If you have your own skis and want a truly unique experience, hop the train to Jurmala and propel yourself over the snow-covered sand!
Get your Blood Pumping with Escape Room
I have tried my hand at two Escape Room games in Riga and can confirm that even if you don’t succeed, it’s still tons of fun to play. In each game, you will have one hour to solve puzzles and find a way out of the room. My friends I and successfully escaped in one scenario, but had to be rescued by the staff in our second attempt. We enjoyed the experience regardless.
Cure What Ails You with Riga Black Balsam
There’s a saying that if you haven’t tasted Riga Black Balsam, then you haven’t been in Riga. The city’s iconic – and potent! – liquor was developed by an 18th century pharmacist and first sold as a medicine. Indeed, the unique blend of 24 herbs and spices does lend the spirit a bitter medicinal flavor. That’s why many Latvians prefer to add a splash to their coffee or hot wine rather than drink it straight. I’m told it’s an excellent cure for the common cold. Riga Black Balsam was reputedly used to cure Empress Catherine the Great when she fell ill during a visit to the city. If it’s good enough for an empress…
Celebrate Winter Solstice Like a Latvian
Latvians embrace their pagan roots at the annual Winter Solstice celebration, held on the grounds of the Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air Museum. Locals don animal costumes, sing and dance, and send their worries up in a puff of smoke with the burning of a yule log. Talk about starting the New Year with a clean slate!
Ring in the New Year with a Bang
The city of Riga puts on a fireworks show like nobody’s business. The fantastic displays usually last for 10 minutes and are choreographed to music for dramatic effect. My favorite vantage point is the center of the Vansu Bridge, with Old Riga on one side and the striking new National Library on the other. The fireworks reflect on the surface of the river thereby doubling the show! New Year’s events are held on the November 11 Krastmala, or riverbank, though if you want champagne, you’ll have to bring your own.
PIN IT!
Know of any other fun things to do in Riga in winter?
Tell me about them in the comments!
I loved visiting Riga, but was there in the dead of summer – the winter looks magical there, a place that seems more ‘wintry’ to me anyway! We were lucky enough to be at Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs to witness the craziness, and I loved it. Looks like Latvia is a place I should look up for another visit soon!
I was showing a friend around Riga just yesterday and she was amazed by the number of craft markets and how many people were out despite the cold. There really is a ton to do here, winter or not. I definitely recommend another visit! 🙂
I loved the photos and the wonderful tour of the city.
Thanks for sharing..
JH
Thanks for commenting! 🙂
Thanks, Heather! You are really the best at ‘ferretting out the fun’ and describing it in such an interesting way! And Riga has so many good things to offer, love it!
Thanks so much, Gaby! I really appreciate your comment! Riga really does have so much to offer, and I’ve loved every second of my time here! Happy holidays 🙂
Great post. I’ve gotten to do a few of these with you. Hope to do a few more (but when it’s warmer). Love the cat.
Come on back! We’ll keep checking things off the list!
I was tempted to visit the Baltics for this winter now I’m sorry I changed my mind. I want that hot/melted chocolate!
Winter will last until April so you’ve still got some time! 😉
Those Latvian mittens look so beautiful! I would love to have a pair!
Oh wow – this blog is quite fun! Well done for bringing out the expat aspect of Riga – you guys always have time and desire to wander about the place discovering things that locals wouldn’t do! I am from Riga originally but not as well connected with the “tourist” things to do in the city that you describe so nicely – it doesn’t help that I haven’t lived in Riga since 2004. Are you mingling with many expats there?
Thanks, Anjci! I bet the city has changed a lot since you last lived here. I’m amazed by all the great restaurants and museums – I think it’s one of the most dynamic cities in the region! I do mingle with other expats, mostly Swedes and Finns, but you may be surprised to know that I also have local Latvian friends who like to do some of this “tourist” stuff with me 🙂
I visit Riga almost monthly – agree it has changed! There certainly are more visitors now. Funnily, I only realised how lovely Riga is to visit as a tourist after I left : )
I used to spend quite a lot of time with expats when I lived in Riga, mainly through the St. Saviour’s Anglican Church – though I haven’t been in years. It used to be such a great community.
Haha, I certainly like my balzams – I prefer the blackcurrant version though. It would be a little weird though to e.g. learn a Latvian folk dance with all the other foreigners! I hope you are having fun in the snow!
I think that’s true no matter where you’re from. I grew up near Washington DC and never really appreciated the city until I moved away.
And I agree – the black currant Balzams is the best! 🙂
Wow! You certainly make a person want to visit Riga! I guess I’ve got another city to check off my list now….
Thanks, Brianna! I guess my job here is done. 😉
Great list, I too am an American living in Latvia and appreciate your great list and photos!
Thanks so much, Elizabeth! I see that you make lovely scarves. Where do you sell them? Do you ever set up at Kalnciema Kvartals?
Riga is really one of my favourite cities for a weekend trip from Stockholm. It is not only easy to travel to, but it also got so much to offer. Really like to walk around in the old part of town or just enjoying the view over the river. 🙂
Riga is a fabulous little city, isn’t it? I’ve lived here for a year and a half and still haven’t made it to all the museums. Frankly, I’m amazed by how much it has to offer! I’m glad to hear I’m not the only one. 🙂
Hi Heather
We are a couple (guy and gal) doing a visit to the Baltic from Helsinki in December 2016, winter time.
We are allocating 5 to 6 nights before leaving back to Helsinki.
We are pretty much quite adventurous and okay with walking etc. And just wanna feel the xmas experience and have fun.
How would you suggest we spend out time in this 3 countries?
Appreciate you help.
Tallinn’s Christmas market is pretty magical so you’ll probably want two nights there. I’d hire a car and drive to Riga, stopping in Parnu on the way. Riga has three Christmas markets and loads to do; I’d recommend at least two nights there. From Riga you could drive to Rundale Palace and then to the Hill of Crosses, which is just over the border in Lithuania. Given the small size of the Vilnius market and general lack of holiday atmosphere, I’d spend the bulk of your trip in the other two countries. If you did want to see more of Lithuania, I’d recommend spending a night in Kaunas. Hope this helps!
Thanks a lot! Helpful indeed.
How easy is it to hire a car?
I suppose if I hire in Estonia, I probably need to return back to the car company in Estonia at the end of my trip?
How easy is it to drive during winter time?
I hired a car several times in Riga and never had any problems. I even drove through a snowstorm in January and it was fine. The main roads are well-plowed. I used the Europcar company and liked their customer service. In the office, they show you a map of all the surrounding countries you are allowed to drive their cars and you just have to let them know because it costs a little extra. My guess is that if you use a big international company, you can pick up the car in Tallinn and drop it off in Riga no problem. I once rented a car in Dubrovnik, Croatia and dropped it off in Venice, Italy. It just cost extra. Driving is my favorite way to get around because I love the freedom of being able to stop whenever and wherever I want!
Hi Heather,
Great post, looking forward to taking you up on your suggestions – especially the hot chocolate!!
I’m visiting between the 17th-20th November, and believe two key events are taking place during that time, the Staro Rīga Light Festival and Proclamation Day of the Republic of Latvia. Do you have any specific recommendations for those events? Or know what time the Fireworks take place? In addition do you have any restaurant recommendations? (nothing to fancy, just a hearty local place). Sorry for a million and one questions!
Thanks, Rob! Here’s some information about the 18 November holiday: https://www.liveriga.com/en/3361-18-november-proclamation-day-of-the-republic-of-latvia. I believe the fireworks start at 9pm. This is the website for Staro Riga, though it doesn’t look like the details have been announced yet. http://www.staroriga.lv/013/lv/ (I also share more details about both events here: https://www.ferretingoutthefun.com/2016/09/27/riga-things-to-do/)
As for a good local restaurant, you might want to try Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs. It’s a large beer hall that serves affordable hearty Latvian food and local brews. http://www.folkklubs.lv/en
Enjoy your trip!