Meatballs are to Sweden what fried chicken and apple pie are to the United States – no visit to the Scandinavian country would be complete without eating a steaming plate of them. Before traveling to Stockholm, my experience with Swedish meatballs was limited to Ikea; needless to say, I knew there were surely better options. Some online research for the best meatballs in Stockholm led me to Bakfickan, the casual “hip pocket” (literal translation) to fancier Opera Bar next door.
According to new friends we met in Bakfickan’s communal dining space, most Swedes don’t order meatballs in restaurants because they can never compare to Grandma’s version back home. But it’s hard to imagine that Bakfickan’s could be made any more delicious. Served with fresh tart lingonberries, pickled cucumbers, mashed potatoes, and mouthwatering gravy, this was unquestionably the best dish I had in Stockholm.
A close second was Bakfickan’s Baltic herring appetizer – as fun to eat as it was to look at. The artistically arranged plate featured herring pickled in a variety of ways – curry sauce, mustard, black currant juice – and accoutrements including potato, sour cream, and red onion. I think you should always try the local specialties of wherever you’re visiting, especially when they are this sensational!
When I asked the front desk clerk of my hotel to make a reservation at Master Anders, he responded that it was one of his favorite restaurants. So I knew we were in for a treat! Located in Kungsholmen far from Stockholm’s touristy Old Town, Master Anders has been a local institution since 1905. The menu boasts an intriguing mix of Swedish, Parisian and New York bistro fare: think smoked salmon with dill potatoes, escargots Bourguinon, Maine lobster, chicken Caesar salad. I opted for a fillet of Arctic char hot off the grill with tomato salad and a drool-inducing potato gratin on the side. The daily special was a succulent roulade of pork belly with roasted summer vegetables. It’s easy to see why this place is a favored dining spot.
Kryp In (pronounced creep in) is Swedish for “cubbyhole,” or a small, cozy place that you won’t want to leave. After my earlier success with pickled herring at Bakfickan, I was eager to try Kryp In’s version. Unfortunately, my palate was overwhelmed by the grape jelly flavor of one of the preparations and I’ve forgotten how the rest of the dish tasted. But I do remember my reindeer steak! The tender meat was served atop cheesy mashed potatoes with silky celeriac cream, sweet apple compote, tangy dried lingonberries, and a rich red wine sauce. Each mouthful was more delectable than the last!
Pork belly showed up again at the Flying Elk, this time as the star of a BLT. This rendition of the classic sandwich was elevated by oven-roasted tomatoes, garlic mayo, two types of cheese, and, of course, luscious pork belly. The fish and chips, while perfectly executed, paled in comparison to this knock-out flavor combination. The highlight of this meal, though, was the cheddar gougere appetizer. Those tiny little bites packed a savory punch!
One of the most enjoyable attractions in Stockholm is Skansen, the world’s first open-air museum. We spent the better part of a day there, discovering how Swedes of yore used to live. When it came time for lunch, we skipped Skansen’s restaurants in favor of grilled-to-order sausages on the outdoor summer terrace. Served on a bun with a heap of coleslaw, it was absolutely delicious. Also, I’m a huge fan of pear cider. Can the rest of the world please catch on to this Nordic-Baltic trend?
The Swedes are so passionate about the morning ritual of enjoying coffee and pastries that they have a special word for it: Fika. I must be part Swedish because I’ve been practicing fika for years. The best places for fika in Stockholm’s Gamla Stan are Kaffeekoppen (order the cinnamon bun) and Under Kastanjen (get the sponge cake). Both are located on beautiful squares surrounded by candy-colored architecture so I recommend going early to beat the crowds. In central Stockholm, Luzette is a serviceable option that’s conveniently located in the train station.
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Bakfickan Address: Jakobs torg 12, Stockholm, Sweden Pricing: €€€ Master Anders Address: Pipersgatan 1, Stockholm, Sweden Pricing: €€€ Kryp In Address: Prästgatan 17, Stockholm, Sweden Pricing: €€€ The Flying Elk Address: Mälartorget 15, Stockholm, Sweden Pricing: €€€
I loved the Swedish meatballs at Bakfickan! I also enjoyed our conversation with the local couple that sat beside us. The cheese appetizer at the Flying Elk was wonderful. Was so disappointed when we went back on Sunday and they were closed. I had a few wonderful desserts too 🙂 I loved our trip to Stockholm and can’t wait to see where our next adventure takes us!!
There’s a castle in Germany with our name on it! 🙂
My, oh my… the fika section of this post has me jonesing. You had me at cinnamon bun!
As soon as I finished that giant cinnamon bun, I contemplated ordering a second 🙂
I have a friend visiting in September, so I’m forwarding your article along to her! I really enjoyed this, since I knew so little about the types of food eaten in Stockholm, thanks!
Thanks, Jess! I hope your friend has a fabulous visit! My favorite attractions were Drottningholm Palace and the Skansen museum, though I probably won’t have the chance to write about them before her visit.
We were recently at bakfickan too, were we met some really nice Americans 😄
Being foodies ourselves it is really fun to read your post and to learn what you think of our Swedish food.
The next time you are in Stockholm we would recommend you to try one or all of the following restaurants:
-Oaxen Slip. Situated on the island of Djurgården it features genuine Swedish cooking with a modern twist. A bonus is that almost all the produce used in the kitchen comes from farms situated near Stockholm. Another bonus is the fantastic traditional Swedish cocktails called “Grogg”. A must try!
-B.A.R. Situated at Blasieholmen behind Grand Hotel. One of Stockholms best seafood restaurants.
Dont miss the catch of the day from the charcoal grill.
-Wärdshuset Ulla Winblad. Super traditional Swedish cuisine extremely well executed in a very cosy enviroment. Try the “Biff Rydberg” its mouthwatering!
There are a lot more of really good places to eat, so dont hesitate to drop us a line if you want some more recommendations.
Your blog is very well written and fun to read, so we will surely drop in here again.
Best wishes to all of you.
/Pär & Lena
Thank you, Pär! I appreciate your kind words and your restaurant recommendations! This makes me want to return to Stockholm and meet you and Lena for dinner as soon as possible! And if you are ever in Riga or the vicinity, don’t hesitate to let me know. I do hope our paths cross again!
Cheers!
Heather
This post had me drooling at the screen… I am a huge fan of Swedish food – I would LOVE to live there and get to enjoy it all the time!
You and me both! I fell in love with Stockholm and could absolutely see myself living there someday!
In fact, Stockholm has so much to offer when it comes to food. What I like the most about it is the fact that all dishes are presented in such a nice way. Lovely food presentations! 10/10 🙂
I agree, Agness, the presentations are a feast for the eyes! 🙂
Now I want to go to Stockholm! Everything looks so delicious and you’ve done all the hard work for us finding out where to go. I know my husband would head straight to Bakfickan for the meatballs!
Jenny, you should go! Between the food and the beautiful old architecture, Stockholm is a Nordic jewel of a city.
Everything looks absolutely divine. People tend to think that Nordic food is boring but it isn’t at all. I mean, just look at your pictures making my mouth water with the lovely herring and seafood delights, Swedish meatballs (yum yum) and exotic reindeer. What’s not to like?
I can’t wait to visit Sweden in 2016. 🙂
In Stockholm, I couldn’t find any food not to like! It’s been over a month since I was there, and the memories still make my mouth water! Not many cuisines have that power over me LOL!
I had never thought much about what kind of food you would find in Sweden because, like you, I know they have those eponymous meatballs, so what more do they need? And really, WHAT MORE DO THEY NEED? Because that first plate of food you shared looks SO GOOD. I applaud you for not going there for every single meal… I’m not sure I would have had that fortitude. 🙂
After that first meal, I didn’t consume a single other meatball in Sweden because I didn’t want to besmirch the memory! Even the meatballs I had in Finland a month later didn’t compare. I think I’m forever spoiled! 🙂
As always Heather your photos are amazing, you are such an inspirational photographer! I love meatballs in all of their incarnations – the Italian version, and albondigas in Spain and Mexico, but I have to admit, I have never tried the Swedish ones! Sounds like I need to save my first try for a visit to Stolkholm 🙂
Thanks so much, Jenny! I truly appreciate your comment! I’ve had meatballs in a few other places (Finland, Spain, USA) and none have compared to the Swedish version. I hope you get to try them!
Oh gosh, reading this just made me really hungry! Your photos of the food and Stockholm are gorgeous, I love that city! It’s funny, England is famous for its fish ‘n’ chips but Scandinavia does them so much better!
Just imagine how hungry I felt while editing the photos and writing the post. It was enough to make me consider booking a return flight to Stockholm!
Incidentally, the best fish and chips I’ve ever had was at a British-style pub in Hong Kong. I can still recall the taste three years on!
My favorite restaurant was Hermans, a vegetarian buffet (and I’m not even vegetarian). Delicious food and with a stunning view over the port. Can’t ask for any better.
Those meatballs look damn good though!
Thanks for the tip! I’ll have to check that place out on my return visit!